Over the weekend, KelownaNow journalist Cassandra Jeffery and our friend Ryan Burley tackled the Kettle Valley Railway bike path from Kelowna to Penticton.
The bike path from Kelowna to Penticton via the KVR (Photo credit: Google Maps)
Since posting photos on social media, I’ve been inundated with questions from friends about what to expect along the way. Aside from a sore bum, there’s a lot to know about the 80 kilometer bike ride before hitting the dirt road. There are many websites devoted to driving and information on what it is like, but as a novice driver I found they lacked the details and knowledge that was relevant to me. I decided to share our story with both the ups and downs so that you can make the decision for yourself to tackle the trail and see what the Okanagan has to offer.
Take our bikes up Gillard Forest Service Road (Photo credit: KelownaNow.com)
We made a huge mistake when we started our ride. We thought we could start from downtown Kelowna and cycle to the trailhead above Kelowna Mountain. The steep climb began shortly after the Sun City Cherries Packhouse along Chute Lake Road. We had made it to this point easily before we got off our bikes and they had to run up the street. It took a while but we finally made our way to Gillard Forest Service Road (FSR). Tired and with calves already on fire, we were about an hour and a half on our drive and ready to hit the flat trail.
After pushing our bikes uphill for 2.5 hours, we were joined by some very nice downhill bikers (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com).
But that was not the case. We went up a dusty FSR with our motorcycles, which got steeper with every step. About 2.5 hours after our ride, we were exhausted, our muscles ached, and we were still far from where we started. Fortunately, some very amazing Kelowna residents spotted us walking up the mountain road and stopped to take us away. What would have walked straight up the mountain for two hours turned into a 10-minute truck ride at the beginning of our long adventure.
The trail goes along the destruction of the devastating 2003 fire (Photo credit: KelownaNow.com)
As we stared down the trailhead, we wondered what the hell we were getting ourselves into. Already exhausted and without knowing what was ahead, we got back on our bikes and walked along the path. The view from the beginning of Chute Lake Road reminded you why you tested your body and made it through the 50 mile drive. As you cycle the trail you can see exactly how devastating the 2003 fire was on Kelowna Mountain, but you can also see the regrowth that cannot be seen from Kelowna. The trail itself is a bumpy, sandy drive.
The sandy trail can be difficult to navigate as it gets slippery (Photo Credit: KelownaNow.com).
Lots of ruts, potholes and thick sand cover the path, which can make maneuvering difficult. I was expecting a gravel road and was very surprised that I slipped and slid in the sand as I dodged the ruts. This is also a road used by vehicles, ATVs, and dirt bikes. So don’t expect to just meet other cyclists. The path itself is wide in many sections and you can easily drive next to at least one other person. The trail is flat all the way to Chute Lake Resort, but the sand and ruts make it difficult to stay upright in certain places. It is approximately 15 kilometers from the starting point of the Gillard FSR to Chute Lake. We had an average speed of 13 km / h and made lots of stops to enjoy the view, eat snacks and rest.
Gorgeous Chute Lake at the top of the mountain trail (Photo credit: KelownaNow.com)
When we arrived at the Chute Lake Resort, we were greeted with a spectacular view of the lake, picnic tables for lunch and the first outbuilding along the route. We had traveled 22 miles from downtown Kelowna to Chute Lake and were ready for the lunches we’d packed. After a quick bite by the lake, we spent some time touring the resort, touring the junkyard museum, and chatting with the owners. After getting a good rest, we made our way to Penticton and went down the 2.2 percent grade, a welcome relief for our thighs.
The Junkyard Museum at Chute Lake Resort (Photo credit: KelownaNow.com)
That part of the trail was even more covered with sand, and many times I almost got off my bike. But as long as you are careful and slow down, this shouldn’t be a problem. This part of the trail offers some breathtaking views of Summerland, Penticton, and Okanagan Lake. The well-marked trail leads through the Rock Oven Provincial Park, where the rock ovens from the early 1900s are located. Signs point out paths leading to the ovens and I recommend getting off your bike and checking one or two.
One of the many stone ovens in Rock Oven Provincial Park (Photo credit: KelownaNow.com)
This part of the trail has more signs, benches, and outbuildings which are a welcome relief once you’ve reached kilometer 45. There are many places of interest to visit including a massive ponderosa pine that is a landmark. If you drive along the path you will reach the closed Adra tunnel and the bypass which is a steep descent. This is the steepest part of the entire trail and takes less than a minute.
The massive ponderosa pine along the KVR trail (Photo credit: KelownaNow.com)
While this part is a lot less bumpy than the first half of the trail, it is very sandy and slippery. From Adra to Naramata the route is pretty much the same, sandy with lots of interesting stops. As soon as you come out of the forest and hit the open path, the path is nicely groomed and easier to navigate. The views to Naramata and Penticton are spectacular and again remind you why the sore bum is worth it.
Okanagan Lake along the way (Photo credit: KelownaNow.com)
So what do you need to know if you are to take the path and what should you take?
A good, robust mountain bike with enough air in the tires and a fresh set-up is highly recommended. Bite the bullet, spend the money, and shop for cycling pants with padding. My biggest regret is not to buy bike shorts. I had a gel seat and a good saddle, but my butt hurt. It hurt so much that I could barely get on my bike to return to Kelowna the next day. In fact, we couldn’t make it back to Kelowna via the trail because of our delicate tushes. A camel pack with at least two liters of water should be enough, but we had electrolyte drinks and extra water with us just in case. There is nowhere on the way to fill up with water. So get ready. Many foods, proteins, and fruits are also recommended. You burn calories as fast as you eat them. A comfortable, small backpack is also a good idea. Don’t overload or pack things that you don’t need. There is virtually no shade while driving, so a good hat, sunscreen, and appropriate clothing are required. Just take bicycle tubes, a pump and a patch kit with you, just in case. We didn’t need them, but it was good to have them with us as there are a lot of big, sharp rocks on the way and all you have to do is break one tire.
There are plenty of signs along the KVR to keep you from getting lost. (Photo credit: KelownaNow.com)
As for physical skills, I train almost every day. I hike, run, ride my bike and do yoga. I’m in excellent shape, but before this trip I had ridden the longest around 15 miles on my bike. My muscles were exhausted by the time we got to Penticton and my butt was extremely tender, but not bad overall. Having my seat in the correct position really helped save my thighs and made the ride more comfortable. We had planned to go back to Kelowna after a night in Penticton, but didn’t. With tender bums and sore thighs, we reached Naramata and a total of 100 kilometers, and we called our replacement drive to pick us up – after an afternoon of wine tours, of course. We overestimated our bodies’ ability to do the round trip, but now we have a destination for next summer. Overall, I recommend taking the trail and see what your body can do. Would i do it again In a heartbeat. Would Cassandra? Not in a million years! Everyone is different, but I would think most active people could make the trip to Penticton.
We made it to Penticton! (Photo credit: KelownaNow.com)
Did I miss something? Do you have more questions? Drop me an email or comment below and I’ll answer any questions you have about the KVR Kelowna to Penticton ride.
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